I Spy (from out my car window)

This morning, as we ran errands with our MCC representative, Angela Austin, we received our most thorough peak at the city of N'Djamena so far. Up until this point, I've only had glimpses of the buildings within walking distance of our home, save for the exciting sights and smells of the Grande Marché (the mostly outdoor market) a taxi ride away. Today, we passed the looming presidential palace, the concrete soccer stadium, and the Place de la Nation, a park built around a huge arch and a statue of a man that I yet need to have explained. As much as I wanted to take in the buildings surrounding us, it was nearly impossible for the first stretch of the drive to tear my attention from the chaos ensuing before us! Angela, with impressive courage and apparent ease, weaved through a mess of people plowing through the streets in their cars, on foot, and especially on motorbikes (it was more likely that someone was carrying an infant than wearing a helmet). It's truly remarkable to see how any space that is large enough to fit one's vehicle is absolutely fair game, and if you're not willing to move with confidence and entitlement, mostly ignoring the white lines, you are likely to be honked at for being in the way. Angela says she only got behind the wheel after nine months of living here, which frankly I find premature!

We stopped by the immigration office to verify our papers, picked up necessities at a number of grocery stores, and collected some cute Austin children from their international school in the city. Afterwards, I discovered that your car can be a one-stop shop here in N'Djamena! When Angela parked on the side of the road to purchase a SIM card and pre-paid minutes for our phones, a man came right up to the car to handle the transaction. He was Angela's regular phone guy. While he stepped away to get our cards, other vendors came by offering produce and other items. Angela patiently and courteously declined some of these offers, but, as we sat there, distributed sticks of gum to some visiting children, made change for an older man, and purchased enough oranges for her whole family to enjoy at dinner. I considered that if your shopping list was short and you knew exactly where to go, doing errands could be as simple as pulling up to a drive-in theater!

Returning home, we passed a beautiful array of merchants lined up beneath umbrellas of every imaginable color. I can't estimate how many people made their livelihoods along that stretch of road, but according to Angela, I was only seeing a fraction of what had been. Only a few months ago, the long dirt expanse behind them had been occupied by vendors, but one day, without warning, it was bulldozed away. Of course, people were dismayed and furious, and now they are picking up the pieces and making due with the limited space now reserved for them.

I'm greatly looking forward to heading out of the city tomorrow, into Moundou, the town where I will be living this year. I imagine that during the 6-7 hour drive, I'll get to see a much bigger slice of the country!